docs: rewrite README into a proper user-facing intro

The old README was mostly a phase-status table — useful for tracking
progress but unhelpful for a first-time reader landing on the repo.
Restructured around the three things a new user actually needs:

1. **What it is.** One-paragraph pitch + a feature checklist that
   mirrors the SPEC §13.3 status without burying the reader in phase
   numbers. Architecture details + the deferred §13.1 work stay in
   `SPEC.md`, linked from the intro.

2. **How to install.** Plugin-manager snippets for lazy.nvim,
   vim-plug, dein, and a plain-Vim packpath path. Plus a
   "try it without touching your config" pointer to
   `./start-nvim.sh` / `./start-vim.sh` so curious users can kick the
   tyres in 5 seconds.

3. **How to use.** A compact `setup({})` example covering wiki_root,
   multi-wiki, mappings groups, folding strategy, and diagnostic
   severity. Then command and keymap cheatsheets that distinguish
   "vimwiki-compat surface" from "things the LSP server returns",
   plus the migrating-from-vimwiki notes (two behaviour deltas the
   user might trip on).

Kept:
- The repository layout diagram (updated to reflect the renamed
  ftplugin/syntax files and the new `scripts/` test harness).
- The implementation-status tables, now under `Development` so
  contributors find them but new users aren't drowned in them.
- The dual MIT/Apache license footer.

No behaviour changes; documentation-only.

Co-Authored-By: Claude Opus 4.7 (1M context) <noreply@anthropic.com>

README.md

@@ -1,19 +1,335 @@
 # nuwiki
 
-A Vim/Neovim plugin providing full vimwiki syntax support, implemented as a
-Rust-based language server (LSP).
+**A vimwiki-compatible Vim/Neovim plugin backed by a Rust language server.**
 
-> **Status:** v1.0 (Phases 0–10) shipped — parsing, highlighting, navigation,
-> editor glue, and release pipeline are all live. v1.1 (Phases 11–19) in
-> progress, closing the gap to a full vimwiki replacement: tags, diary,
-> server-side edit commands, link health, HTML export commands, multi-wiki,
-> and the `:Vimwiki*` keymap layer.
+nuwiki replaces the original [vimwiki](https://github.com/vimwiki/vimwiki)
+plugin while keeping its file format, keymaps, and `:Vimwiki*` command
+surface intact. The substantive work happens in a Rust LSP daemon — Vim
+and Neovim are thin client layers that just wire up keystrokes and
+display results.
 
-See [`SPEC.md`](./SPEC.md) for the full project specification.
+- ✅ Full vimwiki syntax (`.wiki`) — headings, lists with checkboxes,
+  tables, math, code, tags, links (wiki / interwiki / diary / file /
+  raw URL / transclusion).
+- ✅ Goto-definition, backlinks, hover, completion, workspace symbol
+  search, semantic highlighting — all over LSP.
+- ✅ Diary (today/yesterday/tomorrow/next/prev), tags (search + link
+  generation), TOC generation, broken-link diagnostics, orphan finder.
+- ✅ Multi-wiki with cross-wiki interwiki links (`[[wn.name:Page]]`).
+- ✅ HTML export with templates, CSS, auto-export on save, RSS feed.
+- ✅ Folding (LSP `foldingRange` + regex fallback), header & link
+  text objects, the `<CR>` two-step link-create-and-follow.
+- ✅ `:Vimwiki*` command compat + `:Nuwiki*` canonical aliases.
 
-## Implementation status
+See [`SPEC.md`](./SPEC.md) for the architecture, design decisions, and
+the full phase log; the [pending-work section](./SPEC.md#13-pending-implementation)
+lists the few items still in flight (table/list rewriter commands and
+colorize).
 
-### v1.0 — foundation
+---
+
+## Installation
+
+The plugin ships a `nuwiki-ls` binary that the editor talks to over
+LSP stdio. The `install()` Lua helper downloads a pre-built release for
+your platform, falling back to `cargo build --release` if no asset
+matches.
+
+### lazy.nvim
+
+```lua
+{
+  'gffranco/nuwiki',
+  build = ":lua require('nuwiki').install()",
+  ft = { 'vimwiki' },
+  opts = {
+    wiki_root = '~/vimwiki',
+  },
+}
+```
+
+### vim-plug
+
+```vim
+Plug 'gffranco/nuwiki', { 'do': 'vim -e -s -c "source scripts/download_bin.vim" -c "q"' }
+```
+
+In `init.lua` / `init.vim`:
+
+```lua
+require('nuwiki').setup({ wiki_root = '~/vimwiki' })
+```
+
+### Dein
+
+```vim
+call dein#add('gffranco/nuwiki', {
+  \ 'build': 'vim -e -s -c "source scripts/download_bin.vim" -c "q"'
+  \ })
+```
+
+### Plain Vim (no plugin manager)
+
+```sh
+git clone https://code.gfran.co/gffranco/nuwiki ~/.vim/pack/gffranco/start/nuwiki
+cd ~/.vim/pack/gffranco/start/nuwiki && cargo build --release -p nuwiki-ls
+mkdir -p bin && ln -s target/release/nuwiki-ls bin/nuwiki-ls
+```
+
+Then ensure an LSP client is loaded (Vim path prefers
+[`vim-lsp`](https://github.com/prabirshrestha/vim-lsp), falls back to
+[`coc.nvim`](https://github.com/neoclide/coc.nvim)). Neovim 0.11+ uses
+its built-in LSP client — no extra plugin needed.
+
+### Trying it without touching your config
+
+```sh
+./start-nvim.sh           # spawns Neovim with a scratch wiki under
+                          # $XDG_CACHE_HOME/nuwiki-dev
+./start-vim.sh            # same, but for plain Vim — clones vim-lsp
+                          # into the cache on first run
+```
+
+Both scripts build the LSP binary, seed a sample wiki, and launch
+the editor against an isolated state dir. Pass a wiki file path to
+open it directly; `NUWIKI_DEV_WIKI=/path/to/wiki` points at your
+own sandbox instead.
+
+---
+
+## Configuration
+
+Defaults are vimwiki-compatible. Full schema (with type annotations and
+defaults) lives in [`lua/nuwiki/config.lua`](./lua/nuwiki/config.lua).
+
+```lua
+require('nuwiki').setup({
+  -- Single-wiki shorthand (vimwiki-compatible).
+  wiki_root      = '~/vimwiki',
+  file_extension = '.wiki',
+  syntax         = 'vimwiki',     -- 'vimwiki' | 'markdown' (future)
+  log_level      = 'warn',
+
+  -- Or the multi-wiki form. The single-wiki keys above desugar into
+  -- a one-entry `wikis = [...]` list, so you can pick either shape.
+  wikis = {
+    {
+      name           = 'personal',
+      root           = '~/vimwiki',
+      file_extension = '.wiki',
+      diary_rel_path = 'diary',
+      diary_index    = 'diary',
+      -- HTML export (Phase 17)
+      html_path        = '~/vimwiki/_html',
+      template_path    = '~/vimwiki/_templates',
+      template_default = 'default',
+      template_ext     = '.tpl',
+      css_name         = 'style.css',
+      auto_export      = false,    -- export on save
+      exclude_files    = {},       -- glob patterns
+    },
+  },
+
+  -- Keymap groups — flip subgroups off independently. Defaults all on.
+  mappings = {
+    enabled       = true,
+    wiki_prefix   = true,  -- <Leader>w*
+    links         = true,  -- <CR>, <S-CR>, <Tab>, <BS>, +, …
+    lists         = true,  -- <C-Space>, gln/glp/glx, gl<Space>, o/O
+    headers       = true,  -- =, -, ]], [[, ]=, [=, ]u, [u
+    table_editing = true,  -- gqq, gq1, gww, gw1, <A-Left>, <A-Right>
+    diary         = true,  -- <C-Down>, <C-Up>
+    html_export   = true,  -- <Leader>wh, <Leader>whh
+    text_objects  = true,  -- ah, ih
+  },
+
+  -- Folding strategy: 'lsp' (server-driven foldingRange — default on
+  -- Neovim 0.11+), 'expr' (pure regex), or 'off'.
+  folding = 'lsp',
+
+  -- Broken-link diagnostic severity: 'off' | 'hint' | 'warn' | 'error'.
+  diagnostic = {
+    link_severity = 'warn',
+  },
+})
+```
+
+Vim users without Lua should set the equivalent globals before sourcing
+the plugin:
+
+```vim
+let g:nuwiki_wiki_root      = '~/vimwiki'
+let g:nuwiki_file_extension = '.wiki'
+let g:nuwiki_log_level      = 'warn'
+let g:nuwiki_no_default_mappings = 0   " set to 1 to skip the keymap layer
+```
+
+---
+
+## Usage
+
+### Commands
+
+Both `:Vimwiki*` (migration compat) and `:Nuwiki*` (canonical native)
+are registered as buffer-local commands on every `.wiki` buffer.
+Selected highlights — see `:Vimwiki<Tab>` for the full list.
+
+| Command | What it does |
+|---|---|
+| `:VimwikiIndex [N]` | Open wiki N's `index.wiki` (default: 1) |
+| `:VimwikiUISelect` | Pick a wiki from a list (multi-wiki only) |
+| `:VimwikiMakeDiaryNote` | Open today's diary page |
+| `:VimwikiDiaryNextDay` / `:VimwikiDiaryPrevDay` | Chronological diary nav |
+| `:VimwikiTOC` | Generate / refresh table of contents on the current page |
+| `:VimwikiGenerateLinks` | Flat list of every page in the wiki |
+| `:VimwikiCheckLinks` | Send broken links to the quickfix list |
+| `:VimwikiSearchTags {tag}` | Quickfix of all occurrences of `:tag:` |
+| `:VimwikiGenerateTagLinks [tag]` | Insert a section linking all pages with `<tag>` |
+| `:VimwikiRebuildTags` | Force a full workspace re-index |
+| `:VimwikiRenameFile` | Rename current page; rewrites incoming links |
+| `:VimwikiDeleteFile` | Delete current page (server-side `DeleteFile`) |
+| `:Vimwiki2HTML` | Render current page to HTML |
+| `:Vimwiki2HTMLBrowse` | Render + open in default browser |
+| `:VimwikiAll2HTML[!]` | Export the whole wiki (`!` forces, otherwise incremental) |
+| `:VimwikiRss` | Write `rss.xml` of diary entries |
+| `:VimwikiFollowLink` | Follow link under cursor (`<CR>`) |
+| `:VimwikiBacklinks` | Show references to current page |
+
+### Default keymaps
+
+All buffer-local. Disable any group via `mappings.<group> = false` in
+Neovim, or `let g:nuwiki_no_default_mappings = 1` in Vim.
+
+**Links**
+
+| Key | Action |
+|---|---|
+| `<CR>` | Smart follow: inside `[[…]]` → jump; on a bare word → wrap as `[[word]]` (second `<CR>` follows) |
+| `<S-CR>` | Follow in horizontal split |
+| `<C-CR>` | Follow in vertical split |
+| `<C-S-CR>` | Follow in new tab |
+| `<BS>` | Jump back (`<C-o>`) |
+| `<Tab>` / `<S-Tab>` | Next / previous wikilink on or after the cursor |
+
+**Lists**
+
+| Key | Action |
+|---|---|
+| `<C-Space>` / `<C-@>` / `<Nul>` | Toggle checkbox (terminal byte aliases) |
+| `gln` / `glp` | Cycle checkbox state (forward / backward) |
+| `glx` | Toggle the rejected marker `[-]` |
+| `gnt` | Jump to the next unfinished task |
+| `o` / `O` | Open a new line and continue the list marker (and checkbox if any) |
+
+**Headers**
+
+| Key | Action |
+|---|---|
+| `=` / `-` | Add / remove a heading level |
+| `]]` / `[[` | Next / previous heading |
+| `]=` / `[=` | Next / previous sibling heading |
+| `]u` / `[u` | Jump to parent heading |
+
+**Wiki / diary / export**
+
+| Key | Action |
+|---|---|
+| `<Leader>ww` | Today's diary |
+| `<Leader>ws` | Pick a wiki (`vim.ui.select` / `inputlist`) |
+| `<Leader>wi` | Diary index |
+| `<Leader>w<Leader>w` / `<Leader>w<Leader>y` / `<Leader>w<Leader>t` | Today / yesterday / tomorrow |
+| `<Leader>w<Leader>i` | Rebuild diary index page |
+| `<Leader>wn` / `<Leader>wd` / `<Leader>wr` | Goto / delete / rename page |
+| `<Leader>wh` / `<Leader>whh` | Export current page → HTML / open in browser |
+| `<Leader>wha` | Export every page |
+| `<C-Down>` / `<C-Up>` | Next / previous diary entry |
+
+**Text objects**
+
+| Key | Selection |
+|---|---|
+| `ah` / `ih` | A heading (with / without the heading line itself) |
+
+Additional text objects (`aH`, `iH`, `a\`, `i\`, `ac`, `ic`, `al`,
+`il`) ship once the table/list rewriter commands from
+[SPEC §13.1](./SPEC.md#131-phase-14--listtablelinkcolorize-commands)
+land.
+
+### Health check
+
+```vim
+:checkhealth nuwiki
+```
+
+Reports the binary path, the LSP client status, registered
+`executeCommand` entries, whether `foldingRange` was negotiated, and
+whether the configured HTML output directory is writable.
+
+### Migrating from vimwiki
+
+The file extension, syntax, command names, and default keymaps all
+match vimwiki. Drop the original `vimwiki` plugin from your config,
+install nuwiki, and point `wiki_root` at the same directory. Existing
+pages, diary entries, tags, and templates Just Work.
+
+Two known behavior deltas vs. upstream vimwiki:
+
+- nuwiki's index is built lazily on workspace scan; the very first
+  `:VimwikiCheckLinks` after launch may be empty until the background
+  task completes. Subsequent runs are instant.
+- `gln` and `glp` both call `nuwiki.list.cycleCheckbox`, which is
+  forward-only at present. A reverse cycle lands once the v1.1 list
+  rewriters do.
+
+---
+
+## Repository layout
+
+```
+nuwiki/
+├── Cargo.toml              workspace root
+├── crates/
+│   ├── nuwiki-core/        parser, AST, renderer (editor-independent)
+│   ├── nuwiki-lsp/         LSP protocol bridge
+│   └── nuwiki-ls/          stdio LSP binary entry point
+├── plugin/                 universal Vim/Neovim entry point
+├── lua/nuwiki/             Neovim Lua glue
+├── autoload/nuwiki/        Vim VimL glue
+├── ftdetect/               filetype detection for .wiki
+├── ftplugin/vimwiki.vim    per-buffer settings + commands + keymaps
+├── syntax/vimwiki.vim      static fallback highlighting
+├── doc/                    `:h nuwiki`
+├── scripts/                test harness + build helpers
+└── .gitea/workflows/       CI / release pipelines
+```
+
+## Development
+
+### Build + test
+
+```sh
+cargo build --workspace
+cargo test  --workspace                 # 381 Rust tests
+./scripts/test-keymaps.sh               # 19 Neovim keymap cases (LSP-driven)
+./scripts/test-keymaps-vim.sh           # 12 Vim keymap cases (pure-VimL)
+```
+
+CI runs all four on every push (`.gitea/workflows/ci.yaml`). MSRV: Rust
+1.83.
+
+### Trying changes against a real wiki
+
+```sh
+./start-nvim.sh                         # isolated state under
+./start-vim.sh                          # $XDG_CACHE_HOME/nuwiki-dev
+```
+
+Both regenerate their minimal config on every launch and seed a
+scratch wiki with sample pages, links, checkboxes, and tags.
+
+### Implementation status
+
+#### v1.0 — foundation
 
 | Phase | Name | Status |
 |---|---|---|
@@ -29,48 +345,21 @@ See [`SPEC.md`](./SPEC.md) for the full project specification.
 | 9 | Editor Glue | ✅ done |
 | 10 | CI/CD release pipeline | ✅ done |
 
-### v1.1 — full vimwiki replacement
+#### v1.1 — full vimwiki replacement
 
 | Phase | Name | Status |
 |---|---|---|
 | 11 | Plumbing prerequisites | ✅ done |
 | 12 | Tags | ✅ done |
 | 13 | Workspace edits + executeCommand | ✅ done |
-| 14 | List & table edit commands | ✅ done (focused subset; table/list-renumber/colorize deferred) |
+| 14 | List & table edit commands | ✅ done (focused subset; table/list-renumber/colorize deferred — see [SPEC §13.1](./SPEC.md#131-phase-14--listtablelinkcolorize-commands)) |
 | 15 | Link health + TOC/index generation | ✅ done |
 | 16 | Diary | ✅ done |
 | 17 | HTML export commands | ✅ done |
 | 18 | Multi-wiki | ✅ done |
 | 19 | Editor glue v2 (`:Vimwiki*` compat, keymaps, text objects, folding) | ✅ done |
 
-## Repository layout
-
-```
-nuwiki/
-├── Cargo.toml              workspace root
-├── crates/
-│   ├── nuwiki-core/        parser, AST, renderer (no editor deps)
-│   ├── nuwiki-lsp/         LSP protocol bridge
-│   └── nuwiki-ls/          binary that speaks LSP over stdio
-├── plugin/                 universal Vim/Neovim entry point
-├── lua/nuwiki/             Neovim Lua glue
-├── autoload/nuwiki/        Vim VimL glue
-├── ftdetect/               filetype detection for .wiki
-├── ftplugin/               per-buffer filetype settings
-├── syntax/                 static fallback highlighting
-├── doc/                    `:h nuwiki`
-├── scripts/                build-time helpers
-└── .gitea/workflows/       CI / release pipelines
-```
-
-## Building
-
-```sh
-cargo build --workspace
-cargo test  --workspace
-```
-
-MSRV: Rust 1.83.
+---
 
 ## License
 
@@ -80,5 +369,5 @@ Dual-licensed under either of:
 - MIT license ([`LICENSE-MIT`](./LICENSE-MIT))
 
 at your option. Unless you explicitly state otherwise, any contribution
-intentionally submitted for inclusion in this work shall be dual licensed as
-above, without any additional terms or conditions.
+intentionally submitted for inclusion in this work shall be dual licensed
+as above, without any additional terms or conditions.